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A new trend is emerging in Medellín: the modernization of traditional popular dishes. From the michelada mazamorra to the revival of soups and stews, chefs are rediscovering the city's rich culinary heritage, driven by nostalgia and the demand for local experiences from tourists.
Nothing seems stranger than imagining a michelada mazamorra, because the michelada has traditionally been beer, when lemon and a rim of salt are added to the glass in which it is served.
There are many variations, but micheladas are usually always fresh and light drinks, not mazamorra, a dish based on cooked and semi-thick corn that is accompanied with milk and sweets like bocadillo, panela or blanqueado. Read also: The three Korean brothers who keep traditional Korean recipes alive in Medellin But in Medellin, everything is adapted, and just as ripe banana was added to sushi, the michelada version of mazamorra was created, which is really just adding a rim of arequipe and panela crunch to the cup in which this typical Antioquian dish is served.
La tradición gastronómica que se transforma
This variation of that old grandmother's delicacy is one of the great protagonists of a trend that is gaining more and more force in the city: the commitment to modernize, either in presentation or in recipe, traditional ingredients and dishes of local popular gastronomy.
'Food is the most important cultural manifestation of any society or any country. The world understood that a while ago; we are following that path, but we are late and very slow,' says chef Álvaro Molina, a specialist in local gastronomy recipes and history. Following Molina, it can be said that Medellín has been in debt to its culinary tradition, because here foreign food has been prioritized above all.
If you think about fast food, the rulers are hot dogs and hamburgers, then perhaps sushi and increasingly tacos. But in recent years, there has been a change in the offering that increasingly looks at local, traditional food.
Cocineros jóvenes y memoria familiar
Molina says there are several reasons for this; the first has to do with new generations of cooks, who have understood that the greatest value for a country to establish itself as a gastronomic destination is the development and consolidation of its own cuisine.
'People are beginning to understand that, they are returning to the essence, and the kids are getting there through family nostalgia,' Molina says. One of the things that broke that bond with tradition, Molina says, has to do with the end of the family ritual. We hardly eat together as a family anymore, and that's why we eat differently.
'When the ritual of the family table, of eating together, ends, the cultural base is lost, and that base had a component: the trio of soup, main course, and dessert. I have inventoried 300 Antioquian soups, but people only know three,' Molina details. In this process, certain recipes are lost; simply, they stop being eaten. But food is very emotional, nostalgic; taste and flavors are stored in the brain and are associated with people, moments, and sensations.
That emotional part is what seems to be bringing back those culinary traditions that were on the sidelines.
Sabores, infancia y turismo gastronómico
'When you eat certain things, your brain returns you to early childhood, because there is a lot of stored information that acts as a reference to say if something pleases us or not,' Molina says. That's why for many, dishes like mazamorra or migao are an immediate sensory journey back to childhood, to grandmother's house, to their love. Another reason that seems to explain the rise of these foods is tourism.
Those who come from outside want to get to know the city, its culture, and food is fundamental there. The city's signature dish is the bandeja paisa, but that is only a part of the great variety of dishes and delights of Antioquian gastronomy. Many recipes are preserved in popular kitchens, in houses and market squares.
But we have lacked pride, a sense of belonging to our own and the local, which is what Álvaro Molina says, and what is seen on the street: a lot of foreign, not so much local.
Identidad local y propuestas gastronómicas
'Food is everything to us. It is an extension of nationalist sentiment, ethnic sentiment, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandmother. It is inseparable from all that from the beginning,' said renowned chef, writer, and presenter Anthony Bourdain. Food is the beginning of everything, of life, and of culture, of the intimate and the social.
What does the fact that there are now more local gastronomy proposals tell us about Medellín? Now it is not strange to find, next to a hot dog stand, one for mazamorra and another for migao.
You may be interested in: The ideal kitchen: what you need to cook delicious In EL COLOMBIANO, we wanted to know the stories and motivations behind these bets, so we spoke with Jhon Fredy Álvarez, from mazAMORra de la mita, Felipe Ferreira, one of the founding partners of Demaduro, and Luis Fernando Amézquita, founder of Migaito. This is what they told us about the local gastronomic panorama and their exploration of their own roots.
Please follow us on Google to support usMazamorra Michelada Antioquian Cuisine Local Gastronomy Medellín Food Culinary Tradition Soup Recipes Migao Family Ritual Gastronomic Destination
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